‘Camera', in collecting terms, covers everything from early box cameras
with bellows and photographic plates, to more recent 'still photograph'
cameras, on to cine and video equipment, even modern mobile phones with photographic
capabilities. They can be large or
small, quite modern or antique, some don't even look like cameras.
But be careful:
Unlike most collectibles where older usually means more expensive, the same
does not always apply to cameras.
Ironically, our throwaway society creates a situation
where specific makes and model of modern camera are in limited supply and fetch
higher prices than cameras from the 1940s and 1950s, even earlier.
To illustrate, a
15-year old Hasselblad camera in working condition recently made £700 on
ebay.co.uk, while a Mahogony and Brass Plate Camera from around 1900 fetched
just £113.
Let's look at some of
the most popular cameras on eBay and determine exactly what you should be
looking for.
Recent eBay Realisations
* A World War II Konishiroku Tokj Aerial Camera
fetch $380.99, about £219
* A Girl Scout 1927 Official Kodak
Camera In Leather Case Went for $270.50, about
£155
* A 1939 New York World's Fair
Brownie Kodak Camera fetch $202.50, about £116
* A 1900 7.5" x 9"
Mahogony and Brass Plate Camera fetched £113.00
Those are not rare
cameras. They are no more valuable or uncommon than many items you'll find
selling at auctions and boot sales where they rarely fetch more than a few
pounds each. This is especially so at
poorly advertised events, like the majority of collectors' fairs and some high
street auction rooms, so make a particular point of phoning events organisers
every week for details of whatever cameras might be available. Keep contact details of regular sellers at
flea markets and boot sales, phone them regularly about new stock. Give these people your contact details, too,
so they can contact you for fast sales, often of multiple items.
Factors Affecting
Value
Most pricing is
'approximate', especially on eBay where bidding wars are common. Even the experts are surprised sometimes at
prices achieved for relatively common cameras, so says the editor of the most
authoritative work on camera values, James McKeown (Price Guide to Antique and
Classic Cameras): "The price of an antique camera is entirely dependent on
the moods of buyer and seller at the time of the transaction."
Makers
Even with a limited
study of classic cameras one quickly finds THE names to watch out for among
camera makers are Ernst Leitz (maker of Leica models) and Zeiss. Almost without exception even damaged and
worn specimens from these makers are still saleable, even without worthwhile
restoration.
Age
According to my
favourite camera collectors' site, age is largely irrelevant to resale value
(www.marriottworld.com/value.htm).
Reference the Kodak 2C Brownie, produced between 1917 and 1934, which
the webmasters say is worth just a few pounds, primarily because many thousands
were made over an extensive period.
Curiosity and Novelty
Value
Novelty and curiosity
cameras were popular from the late 1900s, looking every bit like James Bond
creations and often resembling books, pocket watches, packets of cigarettes,
and more. Referred to, unsurprisingly, as
'spy' or 'detective' cameras, they are often incredibly small, but immensely
popular, and can fetch very high prices.
Minolta were prolific makers of tiny spy cameras frequently masquerading
as pens and cigarette lighters and worth about £40 to £100, more for
advertising specialities or with unusual pedigree.
Production Quantities
Cameras of short term
production, (even of inferior quality), can be worth far more than their
quality mass produced counterparts. A
good example is high quality, rare and limited edition models made just after
the war by such as Nikon and Canon which fetch very high prices today.
Condition
With few exceptions
condition is vitally important to a camera's value. Cameras with their original parts in working
order, without rust or signs of ageing, fetch a premium. Original carry cases and product packaging
with operating instructions and receipt of purchase have an upward effect on
prices.
Common cameras in
shabby, non working condition are almost worthless, unlike rarer specimens
which may still find eager buyers. Rare
cameras, in good working and cosmetic condition attract the highest
profits.
It's worth noting
that some collectors avoid cameras in non-working or damaged condition, and
there's still a good market for low value, poor appearance but
fully-functioning cameras, for whatever reason called 'beaters', which you
really can pick up for pennies, tidy up a bit, and sell for decent profits.
Collecting Interest
Collecting themes
help determine values for most collectibles; for cameras collectability usually
depends on the maker (especially Leitz); type of camera (wet plate, dry plate,
motorised movement, etc.); materials used (Bakelite is immensely popular); age
(sometimes, especially for low production items); past famous owners, model and
mechanism. Enter two or more bidders of
widely different collecting themes and amazing profits are possible.
Area of Production
As for many
collectibles you'll find people collecting cameras made in specific
geographical locations or at particular times.
For example, Japanese cameras, mass produced at the end of World War II,
introduced a new high in reliability. This has made them among today's most
collectible cameras usually bought to be used and not just for decoration or
collecting value.
Buying and Selling
Tips
* So quickly has the camera collecting interest
grown that today even cameras made as recently as ten years ago are fetching
high prices on eBay. This is one product
for which bidding wars will emerge and
high prices result for items that are cheap and relatively plentiful in their
country of origin and non-existent elsewhere.
* Keep whatever throwaway cameras come your
way; they could increase in value even in the short term, especially if they're
unused, unopened and in original box, with till receipt, operating
instructions, advertising materials.
* Study cameras carefully before buying. Only the rarest of items will sell in damaged
or dirty condition, although much can be done to clean or refurbish quality
pieces. Looks for dents and cracks in
the bodywork that might mean the camera has been dropped and could be damaged
and potentially unworkable. At boot
sales and flea markets you may have to take pot luck on cheaper acquisitions. But at auction and for higher priced items
ask for time to test the camera before having to pay. Many auction companies have staff their test
cameras before selling and sometimes to provide sample photographs and
warranties.
* As a seller,
bear in mind that some collectors favour working only cameras. It's wise to take some pictures using the
camera and add the photographs to your listing.
Otherwise sell 'as is' or admit
you have no idea whether your camera is working or not. It will reduce bids but will save hassle and
claims for refund later. Alternatively,
offer a specific period for buyers to test the camera before having to pay.
* Take close up pictures of camera and
accessories from all angles; point out damage in photographs and
description.
* Learn from the experts, especially those
selling cameras on eBay. I found a great
guide on eBay showing what to look for when buying a classic camera, which by
implication is important for sellers, too.
Called 'Buying a Classic Camera - What You Should Know' the guide is
available from 9248terry (go to advanced search top right of eBay screen, click
through, tick 'Items by Seller' at left.
Once accessed, click on 'View My Reviews and Guides'.
* It's very easy to buy
dirty cameras, clean them up, and find a precious gem lying beneath.
Some Easy Cleaning Tips
* Be careful and always use gentle, sweeping
movements, one way only, to removed surface dust. Too many backward and forward movements, even
with delicate cleaning materials, can cause scratching or lead to an uneven
over-shiny patina. A camel brush is
best.
* Never rub directly onto the lens or other
glass areas. Instead blow dust away
either manually or with canned air.
Remove really heavy dirt with lens cleaning fluid from specialist
photographic suppliers. Find them listed
in Yellow Pages under 'Photographic
Suppliers' or 'Camera Shops'. Drip the
fluid onto a smooth fluff-free cloth and use a gentle circular movement over
the lens. Do not drop the liquid onto the
lens and then apply the cloth or you risk surplus liquid seeping behind the
lens and damaging the inside of the camera.
* Don't ever clean the inside of what might be
a valuable camera. The workings are
extremely delicate, easy to damage and costly to repair. Avoid buying cameras that are really dirty
inside, they've probably been poorly handled by past owners and could be broken
beyond repair.
* Dirt on the casing can be removed with a soft
dry cloth or with a little plain water added to remove encrusted dirt and
grime.
Recommended Reading
McKeown's Price Guide
to Antique and Classic Cameras, published by Centennial Photo Service, ISBN: 0931838134
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